Chapter 1: The Evolution of Beauty Standards

As societal pressures mount to adhere to unrealistic beauty ideals, we must ask ourselves: is uniqueness fading in the face of uniformity?

Before the age of celebrity influencers like the Kardashians, who flaunt extravagant lifestyles and wardrobes, the wealthy men of the 19th century displayed their affluence through their mistresses. These women were not mere prostitutes; they were celebrated courtesans, known as Les Grandes Horizontales, whose primary role was to lavishly spend their lovers' money.

These courtesans were often the subject of gossip among socialites, with opera box designs allowing patrons to admire both performers and the magnificently adorned women above. The rich engaged in a ridiculous competition over whose mistress could showcase the most ostentatious wealth.

An anecdote tells of banker Adolphe Gaiffe, who was willing to pay any sum to spend a night with the famous courtesan La Païva. She reportedly demanded 20 1,000-franc notes, instructing him to burn them one by one during their time together—a request he found insulting, preferring instead to spend the money.

La Païva's rise from humble origins in Moscow to becoming the mistress of the wealthy Prussian Count Henckel von Donnersmarck is a testament to her allure. He lavished her with a castle once owned by Napoleon III and the infamous Donnersmarck Diamonds, valued at an astonishing $14 million today. Upon her death, the Count embalmed her body, which was later discovered by his second wife.

However, contrary to expectations, La Païva was not conventionally beautiful. Descriptions from the era noted her bulbous eyes and thick waist, with one admirer remarking that she possessed "no redeeming feature." Critics, including Jules de Goncourt, harshly described her as having a "pear-shaped nose" and a visage reminiscent of a "painted corpse."

She was not alone in defying the era's beauty norms. Numerous women, considered "belle-laide" (ugly-pretty), captivated society despite not fitting traditional standards. Isabella Stewart Gardner, for instance, charmed Boston's elite, even managing to win the heart of the city's most eligible bachelor, Jack Gardner, despite having features that diverged from the beauty standard.

Similarly, singer Edith Piaf enchanted audiences with her unique voice and presence, yet her unconventional appearance—characterized by unruly curls and prominent features—defied conventional beauty.

The beauty of these women lay in their distinctiveness. While individual features might appear flawed when assessed separately, the combination often resulted in a captivating whole. Artist Paul Gauguin aptly stated, "The ugly may be beautiful, the pretty never."

Research supports this notion; although symmetrical faces are often deemed beautiful due to associations with health, studies reveal that a hint of asymmetry tends to attract more intrigue. This draws us to unique and novel appearances.

However, today's social media landscape is saturated with images of women who share a strikingly similar appearance—pouty lips, flawless skin, sculpted cheekbones, and exaggerated hourglass figures. The result is a dull monotony, where individual beauty is overshadowed by a conformity that leaves many asking: when did beauty become so uninspired?

The contrast between past icons and contemporary figures like Kim Kardashian highlights a shift from spirited individuality to a more manufactured aesthetic. Critics like journalist Katie Edwards have labeled Kardashian a "poor role model," particularly after her extravagant, corset-style Met Gala dress raised eyebrows regarding health and comfort.

The first video explores how our brains process beauty and societal standards. It delves into the overwhelming number of attractive faces we encounter today.

Yet, the struggles with beauty standards are not new. Historical garments like corsets and crinolines restricted movement, making a statement about wealth and status while simultaneously imprisoning women. As we reflect on these trends, we can understand the discomfort that arises when fashion seems to enslave rather than liberate.

In the modern age, beauty ideals have become increasingly uniform. In 2022, there was a 19% rise in cosmetic surgeries, with many women seeking procedures to align their appearances with filtered images from social media. This phenomenon has led to a new disorder known as "Snapchat dysmorphia," emphasizing the message that self-worth is tied to conformity.

For instance, if you desire the voluptuous lips popularized by Instagram models, you might consider purchasing Kylie Jenner's lip kit, despite her own transformation through fillers. Similarly, products promising "glass skin" cater to the desire for flawless complexions, while surgical options have replaced the traditional methods of achieving desired looks.

The pressure to conform extends to eye shapes, with upward-slanting eyes often associated with youth and beauty, leading many to feel inadequate if they do not meet these criteria. Yet, some of the most alluring icons have defied these narrow standards.

As social media intensifies the comparison game, women are increasingly flattened into caricatures of beauty. This homogenization reflects a broader cultural trend where diversity is often superficial, as seen in cases like Levi's use of AI models to simulate diversity rather than hiring real individuals.

Our current beauty standards resemble a curated Pinterest board of unattainable features. A woman today is expected to possess the lips of Naomi Campbell, the nose of Zendaya, and the curves of Kim Kardashian—an impossible ideal that leaves many feeling inadequate.

The ramifications of these ideals are concerning, particularly as body dysmorphia rates rise among young girls. Designer Beth Ditto's interview, titled "I'm Still That Little Girl Who Makes Things Work for My Body," poignantly highlights the need for women to fit a mold rather than simply being accepted as they are.

Fortunately, some influencers are challenging these norms. Harnaam Kaur, with her condition of Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome, embraces her appearance, making facial hair a symbol of beauty. Similarly, Winnie Harlow has used her vitiligo to promote originality, asserting that no one should be defined by their skin.

Kadeeja Khan, a model open about her acne, educates others about misconceptions, emphasizing the need to normalize skin conditions. Meanwhile, Bella Hadid has expressed regret over her nose job, acknowledging how Eurocentric ideals can erase cultural heritage and individuality.

These stories remind us that true beauty lies in the unique narratives that shape our identities. Psychologist Dan McAdams emphasizes the importance of narrative identity in understanding ourselves. As we navigate the landscape of beauty standards, we must ask ourselves: what happens when our stories become homogenized?

“There is no exquisite beauty… without some strangeness in the proportion.” — Edgar Allan Poe

Carlyn Beccia is an award-winning author and illustrator of 13 books. Subscribe to Conversations with Carlyn for free content every Wednesday, or become a paid subscriber to get exclusive insights every Sunday.

The second video discusses the challenges AI faces in accurately portraying human features, particularly in relation to hands, shedding light on the complexities of beauty representation.